The three words breakfast all day are enough to produce anticipatory goose bumps, especially at three A.M., after the bars close. Now young chefs across the country are dialing in the diner, using seasonal ingredients and putting creative spins on old -favorites—from New York’s Parm, where you can eat mozzarella sticks while drinking a beet-infused negroni, to Chicago’s Little Goat Diner, where the eggs Benedict come with salt cod brandade and kimchi. Call it the rise of the gastro diner. We turned to San -Francisco’s excellent Citizen’s Band for a smart take on breakfast hash.
SWEET POTATO AND PORK BELLY HASH
Citizen’s Band, San Francisco (serves two)
• 3 tbsp. olive oil
• ½ lb. slab pork belly, not presliced, cut into 1-inch cubes (ask your butcher)
• 3 cups chicken broth
• 1 cup butternut squash, diced
• 1 cup garnet yam, diced
• 1 cup russet potato, diced
• ¼ cup yellow onion, diced
• 1 clove garlic, thinly sliced
• 1 tbsp. butter, melted
• 1 tsp. fresh sage, chopped
• salt and pepper
• 2 tbsp. honey
• 1 tbsp. molasses
• 4 eggs
Heat one tablespoon olive oil in a frying pan and sear pork belly on all sides. Add chicken broth and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until pork belly is fork-tender. Add more chicken broth if necessary. Drain and set aside.
Cover diced squash, yam and potato with water in a medium-large saucepan and boil until soft to the touch, about five minutes. Drain. Heat another frying pan to medium and add one tablespoon olive oil, then add onions and garlic. Cook until translucent, about five minutes. Reduce heat and cook another five minutes. Add cooked squash, yams and potatoes and cook for another five minutes or until tender. Stir in butter and chopped sage. Season with salt and pepper. In a small bowl, mix honey and molasses and season with salt and pepper.
Heat a nonstick skillet to medium and pour in one tablespoon olive oil. Crack eggs in the skillet and fry until done. To serve, place squash-yam-potato mixture in center of plate. Spoon honey-molasses blend onto the mixture. Top with fried eggs and braised pork belly cubes.
You know you’re in a -gastro diner when there’s a bottle of sriracha next to the ketchup and mustard