A new breed of gentleman is setting the standard for how to dress: he’s decidedly masculine and he isn’t afraid to spend a little extra effort or money to look his best. Here are the new style icons and how to get their look.The Bespoke Bruisers Tough Guys Who Know How To Wear A Suit
These men have two things in common: They’re perfectly fit, and their suits fit perfectly. (No point putting in time at the gym if you’re not going to show it off.) While the average guy doesn’t have a wardrobe stylist at his disposal like A-list actors and athletes do, we’re fortunate enough to live in an era when designers are cutting their suits slimmer. And a leaner, meaner look can come in handy at the office or on the town.How to Get the Perfect Fit
Not all 42 regulars are created equal, especially when body types run the gamut from gym-toned to supersized. Getting the right fit is a multistep process that’s well worth the investment.Shoulders First
The point where the padding meets the sleeve seam should end where your shoulder ends. Get this right in the store, and you’re on your way.Slim the Sleeves
Here’s where the tailor comes in. The sleeve should break just above the wrist joint and leave half an inch of shirt cuff exposed. Slightly taper the sleeves if they look too baggy.Get Waisted
Alter the jacket to nip in slightly at the waist for a cleaner, leaner silhouette.Cover Your Ass
Pick a jacket that hangs no lower than your balls. Your legs will look longer. You’ll look taller.Chop Trou
Take in the trousers to fit comfortably at the waist without a belt.Break it down
Hem the pants so they just hit the top of the shoe. Slightly taper the legs so they don’t flap around like Hammer pants.
Photo: Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images The Geek-Chic Athletes High Performance Meets High Style
Take a cue from these athletes, who know the game of life is as much about fashion as it is about action. Whether you’re a pro or a joe, you should look smart off the court or the field. A crisp collared shirt, a fitted sweater and above all a pair of plastic-frame eyeglasses will do the trick.Specs Appeal
Look smart in retro glasses
Dsquared2 Tortoise Shell Frames, $350.Cologne Ranger
Smell like a winner with these invigorating, fresh and citrusy sport colognes
Issey Miyake L'eau D'issey Pour Homme Sport, $79.
Givenchy Play Sport, $75.
Dior Homme Sport, $57.
Photo: WireImage The Real Rock Stars They Own The Streets The Way They Own The Stage
Over the years, “rock and roll” has been used to describe a look that often veered a bit too costumey (Cee Lo Green channeling Mad Max; Elton John channeling himself). Today it means wearing something with a little attitude (leather, dark sunglasses and a well-chosen hat)—a performance these musicians have mastered and anyone can pull off.John Varvatos’s 3 Rules for Dressing Like a Rock Star
Menswear designer, Fashion Star mentor and hard-core audiophile John Varvatos designs clothes that help mere mortals channel their inner rock god and actual rock gods achieve sartorial splendor. (Artists from Iggy Pop to ZZ Top have appeared in his ad campaigns.) Here are his rules for dressing like a rock star.Embody It
“Not everybody has a rock-god body—most rockers were rail thin—so the most important thing to think about is what’s going to look good on you. You need to be comfortable with what you’re wearing. Not a lot of guys can show up in a top hat like Slash does and not have everybody laugh at them. Swagger is key.”Invest in a Classic Leather Jacket
“The best leather jackets are the ones that feel as if they have a history to them, like they’ve been around forever. You want one that will feel just as relevant when you pull it out of the closet 10 years from now. ”Don’t Skip the Shades
“Sunglasses give an air of intrigue and inaccessibility. I’m writing a book for HarperCollins about rock and roll in fashion, and there’s a quote from Patti Smith where she says her sunglasses are such an important part of her look that she couldn’t conceive of going onstage without them any more than she’d go onstage without her guitar.”
Photo: WireImage The Forward Formalists For These Men, Looking Good Is Black And White
We’re living in the golden age of the tuxedo: The mobster black-on-black look is out and the Sinatra traditional look is back—but not so much that you can’t tweak tradition. These gentlemen grace the red carpet with a style that’s the perfect balance of formal and personal.
The New Rules of Black Tie
Although tuxedos have gotten more casual in recent years, that doesn’t mean you should coordinate your bow tie with your date’s gown. A tuxedo should be black. The shirt should be white. And yes, you should buy one. Here’s the new formal formula.
Do the Math
Factor in the rental cost plus the time spent on fitting, picking up and then returning the tuxedo, and you might as well buy. The Italian-made Ludlow tuxedo from J. Crew costs about $700 and will serve you at all three of your weddings.
Bow Tie Not Required
You can wear a normal tie with a tuxedo that’s cut on the slim side.
Pass on the Pleats
A crisp white dress shirt looks sharp and can be worn with a regular suit the rest of the year. Nothing says senior prom like tuxedo studs in a pleated shirt.
Whether you rent or buy, emulate George Clooney for that classic old-Hollywood look: single-button jacket with a notch lapel, bow tie, no cummerbund.
Photo: WireImage The Alpha Artists Casual, Creative, In Control
A true artist tells a story even when he’s not on-screen. These actors wear classic clothes with a weathered look that speaks of experience and a life well lived.
The Art of Dressing Down
Casual can be creative with classic clothes that have a sense of history.
Oiled Suede Jacket by Rogue, $695.
Button-Front Vest by John Varvatos, $498.
Arkansas Boots by Frye, $298.
Knit Caps by Block Headwear, $38
Bandana Print Scarf by John Varvatos, $198.
Photo: Getty Images