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Food/Drink Archives
05.05.08 5:00 AM CDT • Food/Drink • Rocky Rakovic

1800se_urban_medium%20copy.jpgHappy Cinco de Mayo. We’re celebrating by drinking with something beautiful--surely, then, the women will show up. 1800 Essential is a limited edition release from those wonderful people who gave us 1800 Silver. The “Essential” part is in the design of the bottle. They gave nine artists a glass canvas and printed 1,800 bottles of each creation (retailing at $35, only at high-end liquor stores). The art of the cocktail just got prettier.


04.17.08 5:00 AM CDT • Food/Drink • David Pfister

kiosk.jpgRio de Janeiro is a thoroughly mythologized destination. To survey the city in a blog entry would be painfully trite: thongs, beaches, soccer, samba, the Cristo, thongs. But what about drink? Of course cachaça is the liquor most closely associated with Brazil and the caipirinha, consisting of lime, sugar, ice and cachaça, the cocktail. However, beer is the drink of choice in bistros, at beach-side kiosks, even on the street. Shopp (pronounced sho-pee) is the go-to brew. Not a specific brand, shopp is generic and indicates the manner in which it’s served: on draft, very cold, and in a short glass. When asking for a shopp, you get what you get, meaning an establishment typically serves a single domestic brand like Skol or Itaipava on draft (usually a pilsner), complemented by five or so brands in bottles. In spite of beer’s ubiquitous presence—when I was there, my infinitely generous host Paulo insisted I drink one in his car on the way to the airport—there was, inversely, a distinct and equally refreshing lack of drunks.


04.07.08 5:00 AM CDT • Food/Drink • Playboy Staff

champagnejunket.jpgResearcher Bryan Abrams recently had the great good luck to go on a junket—to Paris!—to drink champagne! Here’s his report:

Traveling is a blood sport now thanks to the epic descent of the once mighty dollar, and it pays to be creative in order to get out and about. The mighty press trip is one way to go about it, which is how I found myself in Paris with seven other NY journalists, all to celebrate a watershed moment for France’s famous Champagne, Perrier-Jouet.
 
So the deal was this; Perrier-Jouet rented out the Paris Opera House on the first night of Spring (March 20th) for the unveiling of a new bottle of bubbly reasonably priced at about $6,500, as well as a program in which the super rich will have the chance to customize their own Champagne for the measly pittance of around $100,000. Apparently the French don’t have any sub-prime mortgage or insolvent mega-banks fiascos to deal with.
 
About 100 people in the world will be eligible to co-create the first tailor-made champagne in history. For their money, they get to go to Epernay, located in eastern France, where they’ll meet the cellar master Herve Deschamps, at the Pierre Jouet headquarters, the Maison Belle Epoque, a mansion famous for its original art nouveau furniture and artwork.
 
The event to celebrate this new program involved yet another first; the first time the epic Paris Opera House has been rented out. The historic façade was transformed into a huge floral display, flowers being a trademark of the Pierre-Jouet bottles. I was half drunk by the time I got there, thanks to the bottles of champagne sent to our rooms at the Inter-Continental.

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02.20.08 5:00 AM CST • Food/Drink • Rocky Rakovic

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We’re usually not in favor of political fronts, but it appears that Guinness, the eminent brewer of the world-famous stout, has set up a group called Proposition 3-17, which is presenting an online petition in favor of making  St. Patrick’s Day a national holiday. Amen. I have signed other petitions to make “Irish Pride Day” and “Christmas for Beer Drinkers” recognized, but I am a serious observer of St. Patrick’s Day, and would have signed this petition even if I would have had to set down my glass to do so. St. Pat’s is actually the one day every year, when, if it falls on a weekday, I actually watch the clock until I can commence celebrating. Fortunately, I am not alone; when I went so sign the petition, I found that I was already number 973,133. If you feel as strongly as I do, please show your support (no matter how frivolous online petitions actually are). By the way, if this one passes, the Farkers have begun lobbying for another national holiday: The Day After St. Patrick’s Day.



12.21.07 5:00 AM CST • Food/Drink • Rocky Rakovic

baconsalt.jpgI love bacon, maybe even more than Jim Gaffigan. A week or so ago a shaker of Bacon Salt made its way to my spice rack and since, everything I eat tastes like bacon. Awesome.

The makers Justin and Dave call it their “gift to mankind,” and what a wonderful gift the “fat free, zero calorie, vegetarian, Kosher approved, gourmet, bacon-flavored seasoning salt that really tastes just like bacon” is. Justin and Dave are truly givers--they have donated bacon flavor to our troops in the pork-scarce Muslim world.  

Bacon Salt worked deliciously well in tuna salad, cheese fries, and Oysters Rockerfeller, but my favorite use of the seasoning was in a Bloody Mary.

 

Rocky’s recipe:

In a highball glass add ice to your liking and 2 oz of any kind of Herb’s Vodka (I suggest Rosemary).  Spoon in a teaspoon of horseradish, a teaspoon of Bacon Salt, add four dashes of hot sauce and four of Worcestershire. Squeeze in a drop of lemon juice and top off with Clamato. Shake and drink.



12.11.07 5:00 AM CST • Food/Drink • John D. Thomas

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Playboy.com Senior Editor Sam Jemielity drops in with a few suggestions for your holiday enjoyment:

While we were over at Chicago's Pops for Champagne working on video demonstration of the fine art of sabering off the top of a bottle of Champagne with the Laguoile Rossignol sword featured in the January 2008 Playboy, we took a moment to quiz W. Craig Cooper, buyer for Pops for Champagne and Pops Shop, about his favorite bubblies for the holidays. Here are his choices and his commentary. Cheers!
 
Comte Audoin de Dampierre 2000 Family Reserve Blanc de Blancs
- $176 - The count takes Champagne personal style a new level, with a cork held in place by hemp and accompanying gilded scissors to open (pictured).
 
Pol Roger 1996 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill - $287 - Sure to become a wine of legend.
 
Launois 2000 Special Club in Magnum - $195 - A rare bottling from a small grand cru grower.
 
Gosset Grand Millésime 1999 - $135 - My favorite negociant and a great vintage.
 
Taittinger Prélude Grand Cru
- $116  - Lots of depth and utterly fantastic for the price.
 
Delamotte Brut Rosé - $110 - A unique style of Rosé, always pleases.
 
Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus Extra Brut
- $98  - The essence of Champagne terroir, from a small estate.
 
Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve - $77 - The most consistent non-vintage brut on the market.
 
Llopart 2000 Brut Cava - $48 - Shows the high points of which this region is capable.
 
Charles Bauer Crémant d'Alsace Rosé - $45 - A show-stopper from out of nowhere, a beautiful wine.
 
Casa Boher Brut - $40  - Classic structure from Argentina, a real find.



11.26.07 5:00 AM CST • Food/Drink • Robert DeSalvo

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As an editor of Playboy, one is exposed to an array of intoxicating images, ideas, experiences and, more recently, tastes. I had heard of the Brazilian liquor called cachaça before but had never drank it nor had any idea what to mix it with. Luckily, the good people behind one of the more noteworthy cachaça brands were available to lift the spirits of this thirsty editor and sometimes-Playboy contributor Stacie Hougland. Following is her report of our virgin cachaça voyage together.

Ah, Brazil…best known for its rainforests, Carnavale and girls from Ipanaema. Another of the country’s claims to fame, however, is likely less familiar: the tasty, rum-reminiscent spirit cachaça (pronounced ka-CHA-sa), which happens to be the world’s third-most consumed behind vodka and the Asian grain liquor soju. A delightful introduction to this libation came last week care of Leblon, a relatively new and upscale entry in the cachaça market, which held an intimate four-course tasting of Leblon drinks and meal courses at the Mediterranean bistro Fraiche in downtown Culver City, California.

Fraiche executive chef Jason Travi’s rustic French/Italian fare balanced fabulously alongside cocktails whipped up by renowned bar chef/mixologist Albert Trummer (pictured), who paired a berry-flavored concoction of Leblon and California grapes with a caprese salad featuring the cheese du jour, according to the table’s foodies: burrata (a fresh, light, soft cheese unlike anything you’ve tasted). This was followed by melon and persimmon with speck (a prosciutto-like meat) and a tart caipirinha, Brazil’s signature cachaça drink made here with Leblon, sugarcane and muddled lime. While typically it might be somewhat off-putting to have only hard alcohol through dinner, Trummer’s cachaça/red wine sangria served in a wine glass and accompanying a hearty rack of lamb was more than satisfying.

The coup de grace? Trummer’s outstanding flambé presentation of a sweet aperitif of Leblon, vanilla cognac and pineapple, which he poured from an absinthe decanter into honey-coated glasses, then ignited, swirled and twirled the golden elixir like a performer in an alcohol-fueled cirque du liqueur. Mojito fans take heed—there’s a new drink in town.



11.16.07 5:05 AM CST • Food/Drink • Robert DeSalvo

dragobrothers.jpgIn Los Angeles—land of acute body dysmorphia—you might not expect the mass populace to have a healthy relationship with or appreciation for food. But don’t believe all the clichés you’ve heard about the City of Angels—some of us actually know what a normal human body is supposed to look like and don’t view fine cuisine as, well, poison.

None of this was more apparent than at the 21st Annual Great Chefs of Los Angeles “A Dish and a Dance with the Stars” event last Sunday in Studio City where fine-food lovers convened en masse to enjoy selections from some of the area’s choicest eateries, including Drago Ristorante, Piccolo Paradiso, SHU, Geisha House, La Terza, Josie Restaurant, and many more.

Hosted by George Lopez and supporters Mario Lopez and Stacy Keibler, the outdoor event and its auctions helped raise over $150,000 for the National Kidney Foundation.

It also honored the Drago brothers (pictured), four of the top chefs in L.A. and supporters of the National Kidney Foundation for over 15 years. Between the wine selections from all the represented vineyards and the spoons of tangy albacore from the Geisha House table, we truly savored the taste of charity. Our pick for best culinary contribution has to go to Piccolino Paradiso for its truffle-fondue-topped gnocchi in a parmesan-crust bowl that literally melted in our mouths.

Although you’ll have to imagine how delicious the restaurant selections were until the next time you visit Los Angeles, you can contribute to the National Kidney Foundation now by clicking here. It’s a guilt-free and sweet dessert.



10.29.07 5:00 AM CDT • Food/Drink • Rocky Rakovic

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Normally when I sip on blended whisky it is in an Irish Coffee. While purists argue that an Irish Coffee should include either Powers or Jameson whiskey, I prefer honey-blended sauces like Celtic Crossing and Drambuie, because you needn’t add sugar.

Last week at a Drambuie party at Level V, I was introduced to a delicious blended whisky cocktail, the Drambuie Fizz. This concoction is a bit like a mojito but has the smokiness from the scotch whisky and derives its sweetness from the honey rather than sugar or simple syrup.

Here’s the recipe from the bartender:

Muddle 5 lime wedges in a rocks glass, then fill with crushed ice.  Add a shot and a half of Drambuie and top up with a splash of club soda.

The party was to announce the Drambuie Pursuit contest that is open to us across the pond for the first time. Think of it as a two-day Amazing Race through the Scottish Highlands with sweet, sweet Drambuie at the finish line. Kind of like dangling a carrot in front of a donkey for us whisky drinkers, no?



10.25.07 5:00 AM CDT • Food/Drink • Matt DeMazza

Bryan Abrams, our crack researcher and Special Baked Goods Editor, contributes this report about his most special favorite bakery:

New York City thrives on abnormality. You can find it in the pure waves of volcanic heat rising on the subway platforms during summer. You can feel it as your write your rent check every month, which is astronomical; especially considering your shower is in your kitchen. You can try not to stare at it when it’s coming at you in droves on the streets in the mind-boggling array of pretty women who call this place home (which makes up for everything else, of course). So it’s not surprising that even our bakeries are out there. One bakery in particular caught my attention a few weeks back, when I stumbled in after a particularly wet brunch.
 
This wasn’t a flour-drenched mom & pop on Main Street. In fact, there’s no flour to be found.  Nor is it on any Main Street, but rather tucked away on Broome Street in NYC’s Lower East Side. An adorable, doddering old woman does not run this bakery. Nor does a mustachioed old-timer in a baker’s hat. Nope, BabyCakes NYC is owned and operated by an attractive young woman named Erin McKenna, who has a staff filled with attractive young women (including her sister Elizabeth), all of whom appear (when in their pink BabyCakes dress uniforms) to have just crossed the time-space continuum from an extremely sexy 1955. The place, it should be noted, is vegan. It’s kosher. It’s gluten free. It’s wheat free. They don’t use any white sugar. They sweeten most of their products with agave nectar. It’s all natural. It’s organic. And did I mention that the confections are being created by a slew of pretty girls?  In pink retro-style dresses?  Shouldn’t all bakeries be like this?
 
While the employees are easy on the eyes and the baked goods delicious in your mouth, the business itself is commendable because BabyCakes NYC goes against the NY grain by not overcharging you for their high quality product.
 
In a town where everything is priced at a premium, it’s nice to go into a place where it all looks and tastes so good, and yet costs what you’d expect from that mom & pop on Main Street.  Cupcakes go for under $3, brownies for under a buck, and a whole host of good and yet good for you muffins, cookies, and cakes that are reasonably priced. And during this Halloween season, they’re selling Marilyn Manson cupcakes, which is a blood-filled chocolate cupcake with purple patent leather corset frosting. Trust me, it’s to die for.

 


 



10.17.07 5:00 AM CDT • Food/Drink • Rocky Rakovic

caipirinha.jpgPerhaps he caught a glimpse of our upcoming December Playmate, who happens to be a beautiful Brazilian, but the thoughts of intern Ben Conniff keep slipping down South America way:

Ever since I visited Brazil a year ago, there’s one thing I’ve sorely missed—and it’s not the bronze-skinned, g-string-clad women with perfect bodies. OK, it is. But then there’s that other Brazilian delicacy I yearn for: a good caipirinha. A simple mixture of muddled limes, sugar and cachaça, Brazil’s staple sugar cane-based liquor, a caipirinha can transport you in an instant from the muggy city to tropical sands and cool breezes. Sure, you can order caipirinhas in some New York bars, and even more in Newark due to its significant Brazilian population. But Newark? Some places aren’t worth going, even for booze. And most of the mass-produced cachaça that makes its way north simply can’t compare to the real deal, purchased fresh off a Brazilian fazenda.

But getting my fix just got easier when I stumbled upon MONDOliquor.com, a new website that deals exclusively in independent, artisanal liquors from across the globe. They claim to “scour the world” for unique tastes, and the stuff they sell is truly idiosyncratic. Try a bottle of Scorpion Mezcal, which means just what it sounds like: there’s a scorpion at the bottom of the bottle. You can even pick up a bottle of absinthe, at least if you’re living somewhere that it’s legal. And of course, Mae de Ouro Cachaça.

The point is you no longer need to fly across the world to get an authentic, exotic liquor selection. A few clicks and it’s delivered straight to your door. And instead of feeding money into big, impersonal corporations, you’re supporting small burgeoning businesses that bring an individual care to their products.
Of course, drinking an authentic caipirinha in my Brooklyn apartment won’t measure up to sipping one on the beach in Rio; the g-string girls are not part of the package. But it might just hold me until I can afford another plane ticket.



10.03.07 5:00 AM CDT • Food/Drink • David Pfister

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It’s harvest season in the Douro Valley wine region of Portugal, which is known for giving port to the world. Here the wine production process often begins under the feet of swarthy men with thick calluses grown, yes, ripe from days tending to the sheer terraces where the region’s grapes grow. The locals call it treading and it is conducted in granite tubs called lagares.* A staunch preservationist of the technique is Dirk Niepoort, producer of cult-inspiring vintages, late-bottle vintages and tawneys, as well as hard-to-find red and white table wines. He and master wine-maker Luis Seabra say the method adds to the character of wine in ways that new, hyper-hygienic steel-treading machines can’t. To that we can only respond, Saude!

*Caution: Do not try this at home
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09.28.07 5:00 AM CDT • After After Hours • Rocky Rakovic

jackson.jpegOur crack intern Ben Conniff takes a break from his crack interning to salute one of his heroes:

Raise a pint this Sunday for one of the world’s greatest drinkers. Legendary beer critic Michael Jackson (pictured) died on August 30 at the age of 65. Now beer lovers everywhere are saying thank you. Jackson fans have organized a worldwide toast in his honor at 9 p.m. EST this Sunday, September 30.  Jackson suffered from Parkinson’s disease, and participating bars will be collecting donations for the National Parkinson Foundation in his honor. Some bars have even pledged portions of their proceeds to the NPF.

For over 30 years Jackson traveled the world, striving to promote an appreciation for the intricacies of brewing and drinking beer. He had an ideal job; at times he tasted as many as 100 different brews in a day. But Jackson did more than just drink. He was a skilled and prolific writer. He published his first book, The World Guide to Beer, in 1977. Since then he has authored many more books, created a documentary TV series, and written a blog, titled “The Beer Hunter.”

Since my introduction I have tried many of Mr. Jackson’s selections, and he never steered me wrong. On Sunday I’ll be lifting my glass at the Hop Devil Grill in New York. Check out Jackson’s blog to see who’s hosting an event, or ask your local watering hole to join in.


09.12.07 5:00 AM CDT • The Advisor • Chip Rowe

scotchdoc.jpgDavid McCoy, better known as The Scotch Doc, is one of world's foremost experts on single-malt scotch whiskey. He spoke with us to help answer a reader’s question in the October issue about judging scotch. Here are more of his thoughts:

On the growth of scotch: “A dozen years ago you only saw Glenlivit and Glenfiddich at bars and liquor stores but now there are many more brands. There are currently about 80 distilleries in operation." (McCoy's personal collection includes 900 different single malts from 127 distilleries.)

On defining “taste”:
“You often see a scotch or wine taster proclaim that he senses a given aromatic in the beverage and half the people in the room look at each other, puzzled. Whenever anyone describes what he tastes in a single malt, it simply reflects his palate and olfactory condition and bias at that moment. Never allow someone make you feel deficient or inferior if you aren't tasting the same thing.”

On tasting scotch: “The first bit that goes into your mouth is usually a total waste due to what I call ‘alcoholic shock.’ To avoid this detraction, subtly stick the tip of tongue into the scotch in the form of a sip, quickly pull it back into the mouth and move it around in your mouth for about 10 seconds. The natural saliva dilution will get you past the shock and you can better analyze the remaining sips.

“Next, take a small sip, maybe half a teaspoon, and move it around your mouth. Swallow it, then breath slowly in through your mouth to pull the gasses off your tongue, teeth and remaining mouth cavity and up into your sinuses to the olfactory. Finally, slowly exhale through your nose with your mouth closed.

“After you've swallowed each sip, close your mouth and breath slowly. The first 10 seconds can be quite profound and then it’s going to reach its peak in intensity and level off. A really good scotch will flatten out and hold its peak for five or 10 seconds and more. The total olfactory experience, as measured by a Bell curve, can last a minute or more."

On the glass to use:
"The experienced imbiber will order scotch in a 12-ounce brandy snifter, with a glass of room temperature water and teaspoon on the side. But there aren't glasses made specifically to capture the nuances of single malts, so I designed my own." (McCoy sells the glasses for $25 each at his site.)

"Here’s a tasting trick used by distillery officials around the world: Put about a fourth or an eighth of a teaspoon of your favorite single malt on the palm of your clean, dry palm. Put your other hand on top and rub it together. Bring your hands up and cup them over nose and breath in slowly. Repeat the procedure several times. You'll see what the warmth and moisture of your hands does to the flavor of the whiskey. That's also what your mouth does. When I visit a distillery in Scotland, I will put a few drops in my palm and make note of the most appealing ones for me then later return to those to have an ounce or two.”

On single malts versus blends:
“A single malt is defined as a scotch that comes from a single distillery, distilled in a copper pot still, made exclusively with barley and aged in Scotland for a minimum of three years in wood casks. A b