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How Big Wave Champion Greg Long Cheated Death and Found His Way Back to the Top
My Way

How Big Wave Champion Greg Long Cheated Death and Found His Way Back to the Top

Some things you can’t explain, such as the fact that an activity like big-wave surfing is what brings happiness or meaning to your life. When I was 15 years old, my sister was dating a guy from San Clemente by the name of Jon Walla, the best underground big-wave charger in Southern California. I convinced him to take me down to Todos Santos—a legendary break off Ensenada—for the first time. There I encountered the biggest wave I’d ever seen, and it changed everything for me. What it demands of you to actually ride one of those waves—the thrill and sense of accomplishment—was far beyond anything I’d experienced before. It’s the greatest physical and mental challenge in the sport of surfing. After winning the high school national championship, I became a big-wave free surfer. Ocean Pacific gave me a travel budget to chase swells to different corners of the globe. When I was 19 I won Dungeons, a big-wave competition in South Africa. That got me an invitation to the…

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