Eighty years ago Dr. Alister MacKenzie left the United Kingdom for America, where he and Bobby Jones designed Augusta National, arguably the greatest golf course in the world. But MacKenzie also had a hand in three world-class courses in Oz. Best among them is Royal Melbourne, which on most lists ranks in the world's top five. You need a letter of introduction from a U.S. club to tread Royal Mel's glass-slick greens, but Aussies are a friendly lot; ask around, mention how far you've come and you might get on. Victoria Golf Club features MacKenzie's famed Sandbelt bunkers. Golf fans will remember the time in a 1964 tournament when Arnold Palmer climbed 15 feet up a tree on the ninth hole to hit a "tree iron." Par that hole and your buddies will have to buy you an Arnold Palmer cocktail -- lemonade and iced tea (with your choice of spike). Finally, Kingston Heath has hungry rough that makes it one of Australia's finest tests. Other noted courses in the area include Metropolitan and Commonwealth. While you're out there, play a game of "bottle, bottle, bottle," a local favorite in which players bet a good bottle of Aussie red wine on the front nine, back nine and total score.
The Park Hyatt Melbourne in town (from $350 a night) features the Radii restaurant -- try the ivory-chocolate mousse -- and Cuba, a cigar lounge where the $65 Cuban Cohiba Robusto is king of the humidor. You're half an hour from the courses but smack in the middle of the city.
Downtime down under starts at St. Kilda Beach, where gentle bay waves move past swimmers to lap at the feet of Aussie sunbathers. After dark you could start at the Ding Dong Lounge on Market Lane, where live rock shakes the rafters well into the night. For a quieter evening, the Melbourne Supper Club is open until six a.m. on weekends. Think weathered couches, cigar smoke and jazz. For a real delight, however, hit Tony Starr's Kitten Club on Little Collins Street, where the style is 1960s cool and you might find a souvenir to take home with you.
-- Steve Ager