After much milling about in uncharted waters, wayward designers are finally coming home in terms of their cuts. Fall 2012 is all about getting back to the basics.
Tuesday we were talking colors and yesterday we went over patterns; today it's silhouettes, the way a particular style or cut can bring out the best of what our bodies have to offer. After all, our suits, our shoes, our shirts should be symbiotic and secondary; a lady should notice the man before she notices what he’s wearing.
Two things are happening on that front this season: professional looks are getting slimmer, simpler, more minimalist than they have been in years past. Case in point: Massimo Dutti (above), who has gone back to a classic spread collar, a slim-but-simple and refined lapel and two buttons, which we’ll take as a farewell to the daunting double breast. A form-fitting look whether it’s layered or left alone and a kudos to even the strangest of contours.
But for the more daring, a second movement is afoot that for now we will simply call oversized. Bear with us; the silhouette is far from striking, not particularly our professional cup of tea, but we’re prepared to concede that on the casual front, the look holds water (not literally, of course, though it may appear to do so.)
Take for example The Elder Statesman’s Smoking Jacket, crafted from cashmere on century-old machines and complete with elephant print (who knew how high-end hipster trend could go?). It has all the air of academia without being over-the-top in its design, and it’s oversized enough to indulge in one trend yet not so complicated as to scorn the other. In other words, it’s safe.
But if you insist on dragging the oversized trend (kicking and screaming) into a professional setting, may we suggest you limit yourself to the odd (the truly odd) pair of pants or a pea coat. The folks over at Duchamp perhaps do it best; the texture of their Saxon Check Three-Piece (above, left) offers all the refinement and tailoring required of the modern gentleman, but the material allows for a wider cut in the leg without looking like you are swimming in the fabric.
Ditto this Burberry trench coat (above, center) that, though over-sized, has the sharp, straight lines to give it length.
Otherwise, you’re looking for elongated cuts with little to no embellishment, something that goes straight down and stretches the body. It’s a clean, clutterless look; certainly a cut above the rest.