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Dyer's Burgers
205 Beale Street
Memphis, Tennessee
901-527-3937

When people call a burger "greasy" they usually mean it as an insult. Not at Dyer's, where cooks dunk the thin patties into a cast-iron skillet of boiling grease. If that's not enough, you can have them dip the whole burger -- bun and all -- in the grease for a second go-round. (Only in the South.) The interesting thing is how well it works: All that oil seals in forbidden flavor while producing a crunchy exterior. And the burgers, served on a Wonder Bread bun only with mustard, onion and pickle, are small enough that you won't feel like too much of a glutton ordering a double. (Oh, hell, while you're there, you might as well get a triple with cheese.) The famous shtick, that Dyer's has used the same oil for 96 years -- even transporting it via a police escort when the place moved to its current location -- only adds to the legend. Everyone knows the old grease burns off, but really, who cares? Certainly no one does at Dyer's, which is packed with neon, red Naughahyde, and deep-fried Tennessee charm.

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Photo: George Motz / Hamburger America