The Hungry Cat
1535 North Vine Street
Hollywood, California
323-462-2155

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Call it the anti In-N-Out burger: The Hungry Cat's celebrated "pug burger" has virtually nothing in common with Southern Cal's beloved double-double. For starters, the pug resides in a hip, minimalist raw bar run by a pair of superstar chefs, husband and wife David Lentz and Suzanne Goin. Secondly, it's 15 bucks. Third, just look at it: It's so over-the-top it looks like an NFL lineman designed it. It's six inches tall, packed with sirloin beef, thick slab-cut bacon, chunks of bleu cheese and avocado, on a ciabatta-type bun, this...thing...is intimidating and virtually unapproachable. Be strong; do not succumb to the knife and fork, neither of which has any business in the same zip code as an honest burger. If you've been working out, you'll have no problem picking it up, though you might need to rest every few bites, like a Sherpa scaling Everest. Every juicy morsel is pure pleasure. Don't feel weird about ordering a burger here -- everyone does. In-N-Out may rule the hearts of Angelenos, but the pug rules their bellies.

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Photos: Aaron Cook