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The scotch world is easily divided into two camps: those who like Laphroaig and those who do not. No other brand is so loathed and adored. This is by far the smokiest, peatiest Islay malt around; even its fans admit the nose and taste can be iodine-y, medicinal or, as some have noted, "like a burnt Band-Aid."
Historically, the folks at Laphroaig have been reluctant to play with the formula. But this quarter-cask release is not so much a blind stab at a new flavor as a return to the old ways. Back in the early 1800s -- Laphroaig was founded in 1815 -- many scotch companies transported hooch on mules in small "quarter kegs" (some historians believe this was a way to evade paying taxes on the stuff). Smaller casks led to more surface area and thus more oak influence. After much experimentation, the best results came when they aged the scotch, first in American oak, then in these small, old-school barrels for seven months. In addition, they ditched chill filtering, a process that was not around centuries ago, and opted instead to use "barrier filtering," which simply traps small char particles.
The result is a whiskey that looks and even smells like other Laphroaigs -- it's golden yellow and stinky -- but one that goes down smoother than Laphroaig ever has, despite the fact that it's 96 proof (the normal 10-year-old is 80 proof). Add a splash of water, or even a cube of ice, and you will taste sweet vanilla, oak, smoke and a long finish filled with coconut and banana. It is the most accessible version of Laphroaig around, but it's no sell-out. If you're curious about what complexity really means, buy a bottle, close your eyes and see if you can isolate the Band-Aid from the other flavors.
-- James Oliver Cury
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