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It was only a matter of time before someone decided to bottle a pomegranate spirit. Studies suggest that the fruit contains anti-oxidants and, theoretically, could reduce the risk of heart disease. And in the last few years, hipster health nuts embraced a pomegranate juice drink called Pom. We were not prepared, however, to see two alcoholic adaptations hit stores at the same time.
Pearl Persephone is a 70-proof, Canadian-made, pomegranate-flavored vodka made from wheat that has been distilled five times. It is perfectly clear, has a sweet, fruity nose and is reasonably smooth -- though we did detect a slight alcoholic burn. As the label suggests, there are only "delicate" hints of pomegranate; you're not drowning in a wash of thick red syrup. A short dry finish makes it an easy spirit to pair with other ingredients, but most people, frankly, would have a hard time recognizing the pomegranate. That hint just may not be strong enough.
Pama is a completely different beast. Colored with elderberry (another quasi-exotic delicious flavor) and grapeskin extract, the liqueur has a purple-red-crimson hue. The smell is not nearly as sweet as that of Pearl, and is actually more citrus-like. The flavor leans more toward the tangy and sour characteristics of the fruit, somewhat like an underripe cherry. And we mean that in a good way. At 34 proof, the Kentucky-born booze is not strong at all.
In the final analysis, Pama is infinitely more pomegranate-esque than Pearl. Those who want merely a vague sweetness should opt for Pearl. Cocktail mavens seeking a more authentic tartness can try Pama -- ideally paired with water, ice, soda, champagne or some other ingredient. Or just get a bottle of Pom and add your own booze.
-- James Oliver Cury
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