The Drink

Han Asian Vodka

The Price

$19

The Score

The Taste

Asian spirits are hitting American store shelves and menus at a record pace. In the last year we've sampled good sake, soju/shochu (a trendy vodka-like spirit made from almost anything) and even Japanese whiskey. The last thing we thought we'd see (and taste) was an Asian vodka because, well, who needs it?

But Han Asian vodka stands apart from the crowd for a few reasons. First, it is not 100 percent vodka. As the label explains, it is a blend of "vodka and spirits distilled from polished rice and barley." Second, it is produced in Korea and bottled in Taiwan. Third, it is remarkably low in alcohol. Most vodka is 40 percent alcohol (80 proof). This stuff is 24 percent alcohol (48 proof). Not surprisingly, the final product is remarkably smooth. Han brags that it has a "no burn" taste. We'd agree, but at half the potency that's an easy feat to pull off. The flavor is what really threw us. Most vodka strives for neutrality. Han is noticeably soft and sweet with a vinegar-like quality that lingers on the back of the tongue and brings to mind sake.

Han's marketing also contends that boozers won't feel a hangover because of the unique distillation process, which "preserves the natural amino acids that help drinkers metabolize alcohol better." We didn't drink enough to test this theory but our guess is that the lower proof helps people avoid getting too drunk. Frankly, we wouldn't put this in the same category as vodka. But as a vodka-like spirit -- at a relatively low $19 -- it's not bad.

-- James Oliver Cury

Note: After publication of this review in March 2006, the company added an 80-proof bottle.

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