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To appreciate what's really going on inside a bottle of the new Balvenie NewWood 17 Year Old Scotch, you have to understand what Balvenie usually tastes like, what aging in new oak casks can do to flavor and why anyone would screw around with recipes that have worked just fine for more than 100 years.
The Balvenie was founded in Scotland in 1892 and has been known as the most honeyed of the Speyside malts. Most Scotch makers age their precious whiskey in barrels that have been used to make other spirits -- bourbon casks from America, for example, or even sherry or cognac casks. New oak could conceivably impart too much wood, which would compete with the honey and subtle floral notes. And yet, the public craves newness and master blenders just love to play with flavors.
This particular batch did mature in traditional oak casks but was transferred to new American white oak casks (barrels that had been toasted and charred but never held liquid) for four months. Like it or hate it, the finish is what makes this special. It still has a honeyed nose, but there's more at work in here: oak, vanilla, toffee but also something bittersweet and spicy. It would be foolish to recommend this to newbie Balvenie drinkers since it's an expensive limited-release experiment. Loyal fans of the brand and curious Scotch aficionados, however, will no doubt want to try it -- if only to dismiss the idea outright.
-- James Oliver Cury
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