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South Africa has not always been known as a wine-making hotbed. In the last few decades, however, there's been a shift: South Africa is finally making stellar shiraz, chardonnay, chenin blanc, and something called pinotage, a cross of pinot noir and cinsault grapes. Why not call it pinosault? Well, cinsault grapes were known as "hermitage" grapes years ago, when the blend of the two first came about.
Today, pinotage is indisputably considered South Africa's "official grape." It's an acquired taste that won't appeal to all palates. Some people taste banana (a good thing), while others sense an earthy flavor (which can be good or bad). We prefer the Simonsig 2001 from Stellenbosch -- the renowned South African wine region -- which had a plummy nose, a good mix of soft tannins, plenty of fruit and a pleasing earthy flavor.
The General Bilimoria Shiraz-Pinotage 2004 is a different beast. It's a blend of pinotage with shiraz, from the Olifants River on the rural western coast. It's a younger wine, darker and more tart, and it tastes less refined and less balanced. Whiffs of apricot and raisin mix with cherry, spice and even candy, though with some acidity. If you're ever eating venison and you're looking for something different -- and comparatively inexpensive -- pop open a pinotage.
-- James Oliver Cury
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