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Gin has been such an underdog for so long, it's hard to believe it was the dominant white spirit in the United States for generations. Vodka started its meteoric rise in the 1960s, and gin got stowed on the back shelf. We don't see new gin companies regularly introducing crazy flavors, but a handful of upstarts attempts something new every year.
Bulldog strays from the standard gin formula in several ways. It comes in a macho dark bottle, which hides its colorlessness. The bottle is short and stout, unlike the vast majority of tall, thin, clear contenders. And it plays up the botanicals (herbs and spices) on the label.
Compared with gins such as Plymouth, Miller's and Potocki, Bulldog is neither especially smooth nor unusually dry. Natural poppy and dragon eye balance the citrus. You may detect these citrus flavors, but they are quickly overshadowed by alcoholic heat. Bulldog will likely work best in dirty martinis and gin and tonics; these are the owner's favorite cocktails. Overall, it seems like there's more bark than bite in this dog.
-- James Oliver Cury
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