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The Drink

The Big Red Monster

The Price

$13

The Score

The Taste

Put a little alcohol in them, and wine critics can go overboard. They'll describe some bottles as fruit bombs, and they'll praise other vintages as having monster tannins. Now one wine producer is hopping on the hyperbole bandwagon with as many cinematic references as humanly possible. And the timing couldn't be better: The Big Red Monster, from California, is the perfect Halloween party gift.

The label tells the tale. A big purplish monster carries a blonde bombshell in his tentacles, while in the foreground the townspeople are fleeing. It looks like a movie poster from the 1950s, and it even says "A Big Red Production" below the action. On the back, credits are listed billboard style.

Gimmicks aside, it's nice when something tastes as good as it looks. In this case, the big red combines syrah, zinfandel and petite sirah into one non-vintage blend, making for one big, meaty red with black currant flavors and hints of cherry. It is a full-bodied, slightly spicy wine better suited for beef or lamb than popcorn or Junior Mints. Let the monster breathe a bit before consuming, and the taste won't scare you at all. And at $13, the price won't send shivers down your spine.

-- James Oliver Cury

DRINK REVIEW ARCHIVE