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It certainly sounds better to call your wine "naked" than to say it's "unwooded." But both terms refer to new chardonnays that have been aged in such a way that they never touch oak barrels. Four Vines' Naked Chardonnay 2005 and Hardy's Oomoo Unwooded Chardonnay 2005 play up the fact that they don't have the vanilla/wood flavors that dominated chardonnay for years. The backlash against overwhelming, big California-style flavors is, of course, several years old; these new releases are simply the latest expressions.
Four Vines Naked Chardonnay, pressed and fermented in 100 percent stainless steel in Santa Barbara County, is the sweeter wine. It's not cloying, but the essence of fruit -- apple and peach -- lasts well into the finish. Don't let the screw cap fool you: The stuff is delicious.
It's fun just to say "Hardy's Oomoo Unwooded Chardonnay," but the wine is comparatively thin, dry and finishes super quick. Fans of sauvignon blanc (and anyone who demands a cork in his wine) may prefer it. It seems oddly restrained for an Australian import (made specifically in the historic Tintara Winery in McLaren Vale), and not something you'll pine for days later. If you ever wanted to know what the chardonnay grape really tastes like in the buff, give these naked chards a look.
-- James Oliver Cury
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