The Taste

"Have you tried it upside down?" asked the makers of this new limited-edition bottle -- from Piper-Heidsieck and Dutch designers Viktor & Rolf -- when inviting guests to a Fashion Week party at the Whiskey Blue in Los Angeles recently.

One glance and you see what they mean: The bottle has been inverted with the label customized for upside-down viewing. A huge faux cork appears to emerge from the bottom (which is now the top). It's all very eye-catching and certainly original.

But does it taste good? Yes, and for good reason. This is still the same scarlet-hued bubbly the company produced since 2004 (the Piper-Heidsieck lineage goes back to 1785, of course). It's a brut Champagne, which means it's crisp and dry -- don't let the color fool you. And yet it's got strong fruit flavors; there's cherry, raspberry and some citrus mid-sip before the hint of sweetness nearly evaporates in your mouth.

It's probably too risqué and over the top to be a good Mother's Day gift, but the wine will pair nicely with grilled foods and thus makes for an excellent barbecue party accessory. Plus, you can waltz into the crowd asking, "Have you tried it upside down?"

-- James Oliver Cury