|
White wines get pigeonholed: They're often described as "summery" sips, great with light appetizers, fish or pasta, but not really the kind of drink you want to pair with a hearty winter meal. Too bad. Some whites can stand up to almost anything you throw at them. Chardonnay is often considered the flavor monster, since it can pummel the senses with oak and fruit. It's the usual foil to lobster. Sommeliers will also mention muscat, riesling and gruner veltliner, if they think you want something with floral aromas and intoxicating perfumes.
Viognier is another option, and one that pairs wonderfully with spicy Asian foods. The Château Routas Coquelicot Viognier 2006, a blend of 85 percent viognier and 15 percent chardonnay from Provence, is a great deal at $18. You'll taste a balance of floral notes, apricot-peach fruit, creaminess and lemony crispness. Like most white wines, it is meant to be consumed soon, because viogniers lose their perfume over time. This 2006 should be at its peak right about now. If ever there's a time to take a big honkin' sniff of a glass before you drink, this would be it.
-- James Oliver Cury
|
