The Taste

If you take a look at a map sometime, you'll see that Hungary is located roughly on the same latitude as some of the most famous wine-producing countries in the world: France, Germany, Italy and Austria. It has centuries-old winemaking traditions and is, in fact, famous for its sweet Tokaji dessert wines. Slowly but surely, other Hungarian grapes are finally getting their due. The one that's most impressive is also the hardest to pronounce: Cserszegi Füszeres. You can try to ask for it by name -- phonetically, it's roughly pronounced "chair saggy, foo zerresh" -- at stores (like Trader Joe's, which occasionally has it). Or just refer to it as the "unpronounceable Hungarian grape" -- they'll know what you mean.

Kristóf, a new company specializing in Hungarian wines, recently introduced a bottle of Cserszegi to the U.S. The timing couldn't be better. Americans are experimenting with exotic grapes (Argentine Malbec is huge at steakhouses; South African Pinotage graces many nice wine lists; and Austrian Gruner Veltiner is very trendy). Also, summer is the best time to drink a strong white like Cserszegi.

Like gewürztraminers, the Egri Spicy White 2004 goes very well with spicy and creamy foods and especially Asian fare. It is actually a cross between the Irsai Oliver grape (another unfamiliar grape to most winebuyers) and the Traminer grape (which is like a parent to the more aromatic and delicate gewürztraminer). The initial nose is misleading. It smells like it will be cloyingly sweet, like candied fruit. Then it hits with crisp, tart lemon and grapefruit flavors, a good dose of minerality and a short, dry finish. Despite the name, it's not especially spicy, and to our palate, it could be a touch sweeter and fruitier. But when consumed well-chilled on a hot day with good food, it is especially thirst-quenching and food-friendly.

-- James Oliver Cury