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American wine buyers tend to gravitate toward a grape: chardonnay, pinot noir, merlot and so on. In other countries, especially France, the geographical region is the draw; Bordeaux and Champagne are two popular examples. With the introduction of Interchange 2006, Hayman & Hill is banking on the idea that consumers will want to try a "reserve white blend" from Santa Barbara even if they don't know what grapes are in it.
Nowhere on the bottle does it say that this is a blend of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, muscat, malvasia bianca, semillon and gewürztraminer grapes. Then again, this information might be more confusing than helpful.
In tastings, the wine proved to be pleasant, if somewhat one-dimensional. Tropical flavors abound. Pineapple comes on strong at first, both in the nose and on the palate, followed by aggressive citrus -- grapefruit and lemon. A flash of oak may be detectable, too, but it's the bright acidity that stands out most -- something you want on a hot day and with lightly sauced seafood dishes. At $14 a bottle, this is an inexpensive way to explore both Santa Barbara terroir and the taste of some of California's best unconventional grapes. Made in America, it's ideal for July 4th feasts.
-- James Oliver Cury
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