Boone Daniels's Rogue Ride

March, 2016

It's winter and the Dawn Patrol is out in force—not at their usual spot off Crystal Pier in Pacific Beach but way up at Swami's, where the big north swell that just arrived is going off. Johnny Banzai is out there, and Dave the Love God. High Tide and Sunny Day and Hang Twelve. Boone's crew. His people, his friends. It's high tide, no beach, and a wicked back­wash bounces off the bluff. Boone tries to check out, but the wave won't let him. It holds him in, then bounces him and he knows he's goin...