Greg Long

September, 2016

The big-wave surfing champion tells how going under put him back on topGREG LONGMY WAYThe big-wave surfing champion tells how going under put him back on topADAM SKOLNICKSome things you can’t explain, such as the fact that an activity like big-wave surfing is what brings happiness or meaning to your life.When I was 15 years old, my sister was dating a guy from San Clemente by the name of Jon Walla, the best underground big-wave charger in southern California. I convinced him to take me down to T...

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