Craig Green just can’t settle down. Since 2013, when his debut collection of wearable sculptures was famously lampooned by London Collections Mens ambassador David Gandy, Green has refused to tame his sensibilities for the comfort of others--and season after season he’s proven himself an incorrigible chameleon, showing everything from grommeted and laced-up sets to mixed hand-blocked prints to scribbled contrast stitching with staggered, shredded hems. He’s created looks nearly as disparate as a single designer could produce, and often mixed in the same show at that.
The best of this season’s looks take a neo-futuristic, Star Wars-esque tack--Han Solo-ish cargo pockets, subtle bandage-like strips à la Kylo Ren, and creamy, romantically cut tops in the style of Luke Skywalker. There are aviation-inspired details, and trousers that fold at the waist to create their own aprons; bags that cross the torso like quivers or balance on the hip, the prime vessel for a ray gun (or a wallet and reading material, if that’s more your speed).
Like an Escher of tailoring, Green has folded material into fin-like shapes at the seams of shirting and slacks, and added self-panels to create dynamic motion over his garments’ foundations. Each piece, with its overlaid rectangles, exists on multiple planes--on a hanger, it might appear tessellate and static, but on the body, it shifts and invites shadows in to play with the eye. Green’s most impactful statements come not from the technicolor looks that hit observers over the head, but from his painstaking attention to detail: a shirt with the shoulders of a trench, windbreakers graced by knee-grazing ties, a deconstructed duffle coat that’s somehow both battle-ready and delicate as origami.
May the fashion force be with you.
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