Let'em Eat Pancakes

June, 1961

Evidences of America's ascending culinary tastes abound everywhere, but few with the ubiquity or sophistication of the once-plebeian pancake. Just a few generations ago, this now-princely provender was but a stolid staple munched mostly by lumberjacks and grubstakers. And even as recently as the Thirties, the now-familiar crepe suzette was still an exotic and rather wicked delicacy seldom savored save surreptitiously, along with cognac and curacao, behind the bolted doors of sumptuous speakeasie...