How To Survive In A French Restaurant
October, 1970
In the United States, Italian restaurants are invariably run by Italians. Virtually every Chinese restaurant is operated by Chinese. But French restaurants? Chances are that Chez Albert or Café Normandie is owned by a Levantine, boasts a Greek chef and is staffed by Sicilian waiters. No matter that the menu is garbled Gallic, the prices atmospheric and the cuisine fit for cochons. Somehow, the very appellation "French" carries a magic that few Americans can resist--once.On the other ha...