Souffles

March, 1978

This month's lesson by Jacques Pépin, personal chef to three french presidents.Hot, sweet soufflés. Towering, golden-roofed, steamily fragrant. Popular mythology has banished them to the thin-aired Olympus of personal valets and private jets. Why their awesome mystique? Is it because of the commitment of ordering dessert when you first sit down, the regal presentation and the stupefying check? Why does the idea of making one turn fearless kitchen lions into cowering lambs?A liqueur-laced dessert...