Croquet At Any Cost

July, 1998

When the temperature is warm and the mood is light, you may find yourself with a taste for a less demanding wine. While the oaky, complex French chardonnays are fine in cooler months, we prefer Bourgogne aligote in July. It is the only nonchardonnay white wine allowed in Burgundy, and although it is a secondary grape variety, the wine is very pleasant when drunk young. Similarly, check out the sauvignon blancs of the Graves region. The Chateau Carbonnieux, for example, is a crisp, elegant wine t...