Thought Bubbles

January, 2008

CAVIAR FROM THE Caspian Sea is banned in the U.S., but the American caviar industry has come of age in the nick of time. California's Tsar Nicoulai harvests from organically fed farm-raised native white sturgeon. Its California Estate Osetra (black, $59 an ounce, tsarnicoulai.com) rivals its vaunted European cousin in taste and texture, while its American Golden Whitefish is both delicious and shockingly reasonable at $10 for two ounces.