Pass The Salt

July / August, 2012

When soft-shell crab specials begin creeping back onto menus, it's a sure sign sum­mer is right around the cor­ner. It all starts in early May, when across the Eastern Sea­board the first molting blue crabs shed their hard winter shells. That's the moment professional crabbers sweepin, grabbing boatloads of primes (the runts of the soft-shell crab litter), jumbos (the midsize models) and whales (the family giants). Restaurants around the country tend tomonopolize the best of all three, but you w...