Making The Case For Queso

May, 2013

DROP THE VELVEETA AND COOK THIS MAXED-OUT TEX-MEX CHEESE DIP• Cinco de Mayo serves dual, equally noble pur­poses: One, it commemorates Mexico's victory over the French invasion. Two, it's a darned fine excuse to eat all manner of fried, cheesy and spicy foods with some semblance of a culi­nary connection to Mexico. In Texas, where Los Angeles-based chef Josef Centeno grew up, queso fundido was the classic party dish: an unctuous, cheesy dip that cried out for crisp tor­tilla chips and ice-cold b...