The Steakhouse Gets Weird

Summer, 2026

Once frozen in time, the American steakhouse has become one of the country’s hottest—and most ambitious—restaurant genres.

STEAKHOUSE. The word evokes a constellation of qualities: a dining room cloaked in eternal dusk with wood-paneled walls and scarlet leather booths, superannuated waiters in tuxedos who look like they’ve really lived a life, a menu as large as a biblical tablet and as circumscribed as evening vespers. Turn to page...