Dining-Drinking
October, 1963
It is appropriate that Le Café Chambord should refer to itself as French Provincial, since there is really no one more sophisticated, foodwise, than the provincial Frenchman. Let us note here that Chambord has disappeared from Manhattan's 3rd Avenue -- much like the vanished el under which it stood for so many years -- and moved lock, stock, chef (Fernand Despans) and wine cellar in with La Côte Basque (5 East 55th Street), which bills itself as a French-seafood restaurant. The result is a fitti...