Dracula Country: A Transylvania Travel Log by Gahan Wilson

Security at Romania's Otopeni Airport is severe but gently done. My wife, Nancy, and I are politely separated--it's weird to have come so far with her, to such a strange place, only to see her led away--and we are searched in curtained booths; she by uniformed women, I by lean young soldiers bearing automatic weapons. The soldiers are thorough but never rude, and though they constantly watch your eyes, they are careful to make comforting little jokes.

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